Sewing a zipper into jeans: How you can easily sew a zipper into jeans as a sewing beginner

A basic sewing technique is the insertion of a zipper in jeans. A well-fitted metal zipper is not only functional, but also gives your homemade jeans a high-quality look. Don’t worry if you don’t know how to sew a zipper into jeans yet! Because we will guide you through every step. Using the jeans pattern The Dina Jeans as an example, we will show you how to easily sew in a metal zipper.

If you want to get straight into sewing in the jeans zipper, you can also get the jeans sewing kit and get started.

Contents
What you need
Sewing a zipper into jeans: step-by-step instructions
Jeans zipper sewing pattern
Tips and common mistakes
Materials

What you need

• Fabric of your choice to match your chosen pattern
• zipper in the correct length and color
• pins or fabric clips
• sewing machine with zipper foot for sewing machine
• iron

Sew in zipper jeans as sewing instructions

Preparing the zipper fly jeans

Fold the zipper fly in half right sides together along the long side and pin and close one short side.

Turn the zipper fly over and serge the open long side.

Pin the zipper

Open the zipper and place right sides together on the left trouser leg with the short seam allowance. Leave 1cm (7/16in) space above the zipper teeth to the edge.

Place the zipper fly with the serged edge against the edge of the zipper and the seam allowance and pin all three pieces.

Sewing the fly front zipper

First close the pinned seam with all three layers from the wrong side of the fabric. Then topstitch close to the edge on the trouser leg from the right side.

Close the zipper and pin the top front edge to the bottom layer. Fold away the zipper fly and temporarily pin it in place.

Pin the zipper from the wrong side to the long seam allowance of the right leg and sew both layers together. Then fold the zipper fly back and secure the corner of the fly to the long seam allowance with a small bar tack.

Topstitch zipper

Mark the line of the outer seam with chalk and topstitch from the right side. With the metal teeth, make sure that the needle only pierces next to them and not on the teeth themselves.

Congratulations! You have successfully learned how to sew in a jeans zipper!

If you would like to see more detailed video instructions on the topic of “Sewing zippers into jeans”, watch the jeans zipper sewing tutorial. You can see how to sew a zipper into jeans in the zipper chapter from minute 22:56.

Zipper patterns

There are lots of patterns for pants, skirts or pockets into which you have to sew a metal zipper. Now that you have mastered the technique, download a suitable fly front zipper pattern straight away. The following zipper patterns are recommended to use the technique exactly as described above. You will also find our sewing patterns at our partner Crazypatterns (ad).

4. Tips and common mistakes

A neatly sewn-in zipper depends heavily on proper preparation. Make sure to press your fabric well before sewing to avoid wrinkles that could cause the zipper to sit unevenly later on. Especially with denim, which is often thicker, it helps to carefully finish the seam allowances and press them flat. This prevents the fabric from shifting while sewing. If you’re unsure, you can baste the zipper in place by hand first before sewing it permanently with your machine.

A common mistake when sewing a zipper into jeans is that the seam turns out uneven or the fabric becomes distorted. This often happens when sewing too quickly or not guiding the fabric properly. Take your time and sew slowly, especially when topstitching from the right side. Ideally, use a zipper foot so you can sew close to the teeth. If you’re working with a metal zipper, be extra careful and keep an eye on the needle position to avoid hitting the teeth and damaging your needle.

5. Materials

Depending on the style of your jeans and the fabric you choose, the type of zipper can also vary. Classic jeans typically use sturdy metal zippers, while lighter fabrics may work better with plastic zippers. It’s important that the zipper length matches your sewing pattern exactly so the fly doesn’t end up too tight or too loose. Also, pay attention to the color—choose one that blends seamlessly into your design for a subtle look, or go for a contrasting color as a small design feature.